The New York Times-20080127-Makeover Focuses Menu- Making a Kitchen Hum- -Review-

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Makeover Focuses Menu, Making a Kitchen Hum; [Review]

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WHEN I last reviewed the Olde Stone Mill, a handsome, historical landmark in Tuckahoe, I gave it a satisfactory rating. That was in June 2006. In October 2007, Gordon Ramsay -- successful international entrepreneur and chef -- showed up to help that foundering restaurant reverse its fortunes. As an enthusiastic and practiced problem solver in the food industry, Mr. Ramsay has no equal. His eye is true and objective, evaluating everything from prep stations in the kitchen to demeanor of servers to table linens in the dining room.

Now, three months after Mr. Ramsay's visit was featured on Kitchen Nightmares on Fox, Olde Stone has sharpened its focus, but management will have to be vigilant to expedite improvements. The long aimless menu has been cut, and a special section of steaks has been added. White linens brighten the big square dining room, and on these winter evenings, the attractive fireplace is especially welcoming -- its mantle bearing a vase of fresh fragrant flowers, a reminder, perhaps, that spring is just eight weeks away.

As we scanned the new menu, fresh rolls arrived with an oily herbed spread. Fewer than a half-dozen starters were holdovers from the old menu. Popular Thai lettuce wraps remained, the leaves of Boston lettuce forming cups for strips of chicken, cool noodles and peanut sauce. The cut of Romaine lettuce could have been finer, but it was neat enough in the toss of a new chopped salad: bacon, avocado, egg and tomato, all under a lacing of blue cheese dressing. A squashy crab cake could have been more seasoned and crispier, but its plate mate, a fragrant lemony slaw provided interest and necessary crunch.

Raw bar items have been cashiered. In their stead and more dependable, a mound of steamed littleneck clams came in a bath of clam liquor and white wine, those rolls serving as sops for the tasty broth.

The new part of the menu is devoted to steaks: New York strip, rib-eye, filet mignon, porterhouse (for two) and even a roasted prime rib. Well marbled, a juicy rib-eye steak-- arguably the most flavorful of beef cuts -- arrived rare, to order. Like the other grilled steaks, this cut came unadorned on a plate, in steakhouse style. Sides like crisp haricots verts, mushrooms and lightly creamy spinach were all decent ($7 and $8).

Count on this kitchen to take an order of rare seriously. A sizable prime rib that came with light, golden Yorkshire pudding and horseradish sauce might have been a tad rarer than we would have liked; but ordering prime rib on the rare side usually brings a chop cut from the center of the rack, where meat is more supple. The better done ends are often tough. One can always take the bloody edge off by asking the kitchen to put it under the flame for one more minute.

Chicken under brick was an overcooked, flavorless, dry disappointment. This style usually presses down both white and dark meat from half of a young bird. But what arrived was only the breast, which was as thick as a turkey's.

For dessert, cheesecake -- a steakhouse staple -- tasted flat. With bakeries throughout the county producing a variety of fabulous cheesecakes, there is little excuse for serving a bland, poorly textured product. Creme brulee was too cold.

Snag instead a terrific pot de creme. Smooth and almost as dense as a bar of chocolate, this semisweet dessert was worth every calorie. It comes in the classic cup that holds just enough of this dark richness.

It's a pity that on one evening, the huge table and two sofas, originally in the center of the room, had been pushed next to the fireplace, obscuring it to nearly all of the diners. That's the kind of annoying oversight that makes one want to call back the Ramsay police.

The Olde Stone Mill

2 Scarsdale Road

Tuckahoe

(914) 771-7661

GOOD

THE SPACE Handsome renovation of a two-century-old stone mill on the edge of the Bronx River. A large dining room in a new addition profits from a lovely fireplace. Outdoor terrace dining, weather permitting. Wheelchair accessibility.

THE CROWD Neatly dressed adults; few children. Willing service.

THE BAR Dark wood-paneled bar and lounge, popular on weekends and for a late-night snack. Cocktail menu and broad wine list, with wines by the glass.

THE BILL: Lunch and dinner: entrees, $20 to $36 (most steaks come unadorned; sides are $7 and $8 each). Light fare, at lunch and dinner, from burgers and sandwiches to elaborate salads, $12 to $18.

WHAT WE LIKE Thai lettuce wraps, steamed littleneck clams, chopped salad, rib-eye steak, prime rib with Yorkshire pudding, pot de creme.

IF YOU GO Lunch: Monday to Saturday, noon to 4 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 3 p.m. Dinner: Monday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 3 to 9 p.m.

Reviewed January 27, 2008

[Illustration]PHOTOS: RETOOLED: Olde Stone Mill is especially welcoming. Top left, frisee salad with roasted beets and fried goat cheese. (PHOTOGRAPHS BY SUSAN FARLEY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES)