The New York Times-20080127-Check in- Check Out- -Travel Desk-

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Check in, Check Out; [Travel Desk]

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THE BASICS

The House of Blues Hotel changed its tune after a $25 million makeover, re-emerging in June as the Hotel Sax Chicago. All 353 rooms, the lobby and the bar were revamped to create a more luxurious experience. Upgrades include Italian marble floors and trompe l'oeil candelabras in the lobby, 320-thread-count Egyptian cotton linens on the beds, and dark wood and red crushed velvet in a bar that seems almost too groovy for a downtown hotel. It also might have one of the city's fastest elevators.

THE LOCATION

Marina City is a one-square-block downtown residential and entertainment complex on the north bank of the Chicago River that is punctuated by iconic twin 61-story residential towers that resemble giant corncobs. The district includes the adjacent House of Blues and three other restaurants (Bin 36, Smith & Wollensky and Harry Caray's Italian Steakhouse), and the 10pin bowling lounge. Yachts are moored on the river.

THE ROOMS

Soft pillows that envelope the head in cushy comfort make it easy to veg out in front of the 42-inch flat-screen television. My standard double room had beige walls superimposed with textured brown designs. A bit less than 300 square feet, it seemed roomy enough.The well-stocked minibar included Grey Goose vodka and Glenlivet single-malt Scotch; among other in-room treats were a PowerBar, cashews and a Mile High intimacy kit. I pulled up the snakeskin-covered wingback chair to my window and looked north over an uninspiring scene of pedestrian office and residential buildings. A front desk clerk conceded that the hotel isn't known for its views -- many south-side rooms in the 16-story hotel have front-row seats to parking garages of the twin towers.

THE BATHROOM

The ample layout included a wide brown-and-white marble sink top. There was a full assortment of Baronessa Cali soaps and shampoos to use under the extra-wide shower head.

AMENITIES

On a recent evening, it was a mainly young crowd congregating at the lobby bar, the Crimson Lounge. It is a dark space lighted by chandeliers and candles in red-tinted holders emitting an atmospheric glow. The room is heavy on crushed red velvet -- both on the wallpaper and on low-back chairs that look chic but lack the cushiness of the overstuffed 18th-century-French-style chairs scattered about the lounge. Fanciful wall designs include sconces made from deer horns; wrought-iron dividers set off different areas to create an intimate feel. The mood got livelier when a D.J. in the red patent leather booth spun danceable pop tunes from the likes of Michael Jackson and Earth, Wind & Fire.

Bin 36 and 10pin are attached to the hotel. The former is an airy, modern space with blond wood, American contemporary cuisine and a large wine selection. At 10pin, the flashing lights, large video screens, and fluorescent blue glow are distracting for bowling but make for a hip scene fitting for the lounge it also is.

ROOM SERVICE

Room service delivered breakfast in 40 minutes, 10 minutes later than promised. But the sourdough breakfast sandwich ($14) and hash browns were tasty, the coffee was warm and the orange juice was chilled.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Even without good views, the lively location, comfortable beds and friendly staff make for an enjoyable stay. Rates range from $300 for a double to $500 for a suite. Hotel Sax Chicago, 333 North Dearborn Street; (312) 245-0333; www.hotelsaxchicago.com.

[Illustration]PHOTO: The Crimson Lounge at Hotel Sax Chicago.