The Wall Street Journal-20080129-Off the Beaten Track - Key West

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Off the Beaten Track / Key West

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Writer Barbara Chai on what to do and where to eat and stay on this laid-back Florida island.

-- What to Do: Key West, home to the southernmost point in the continental U.S., is easily navigable on foot or bike. Explore the charming streets of the Old Town, where many "Conch" houses boast intricate woodworking and lush gardens. The streets between Duval Street and Frances Street, north of Southard Street, are particularly lovely. Celebrate the island's literary legacy with a stop at the Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum. "Papa" Hemingway lived and wrote here from 1931-1940 (907 Whitehead St., Tel. 305-294-1136). Tennessee Williams owned the residence at 1431 Duncan St. and Elizabeth Bishop lived at 624 White St., but both houses are now closed to the public. Join the crowds for the sunset party on Mallory Square at least once -- street performers, food vendors and conch blowers will vie for your attention. Visit the island's numerous art galleries, many of which are clustered at the south end of Duval Street. If you have time left over, admire the foliage at the Audubon House & Tropical Gardens, where there are 28 first-edition works by the famous ornithologist (205 Whitehead St., Tel. 305-294-2116).

-- Where to Stay: The newly renovated Casa Marina Resort mixes Mediterranean style with contemporary furnishings. Some rooms have balcony views of the beach. (Rates vary, 1500 Reynolds St., Tel. 866- 397-6342, www.casamarinaresort.com). The Crowne Plaza La Concha is smack dab in the center of action, and its 7th-floor observation deck offers a 360-degree view of the island (430 Duval St., Tel. 800-745- 2191, www.laconchakeywest.com).

-- What to Eat: For prime sunset views, while away the evening at Louie's Backyard, where the "afterdeck" bar and dining area overlook the Atlantic Ocean. Mains include a catch of the day, sauteed shrimp and double lamb chops (700 Waddell Ave., Tel. 305-294-1061). Relax in the eccentric courtyard of Blue Heaven amid the almond trees and free- roaming roosters. Try the scallops provencale or surf 'n turf, and wash it down with an excellent mojito (729 Thomas St., Tel. 305-296- 8666). El Siboney offers Cuban mix sandwiches, tostones and ropa vieja (900 Catherine St., Tel. 305-296-4184). Satisfy your sweet tooth at Blond Giraffe with a frozen key lime pie (dipped in chocolate) on a stick (802 Duval St., Tel. 305-293-7874).