The Wall Street Journal-20080115-Off the Beaten Track - Tofino
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Off the Beaten Track / Tofino
Reporter Lauren Etter on where to stay, eat and watch the waves in Tofino, British Columbia.
-- What to do: If tromping along the beach in galoshes amid tempestuous rain and crashing waves sounds like your style, head to Tofino, a tiny town on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, to experience a winter tradition: Storm watching. Tofino, a place of spectacular natural beauty, attracts throngs during the summertime when whales, sea lions and sun-worshippers swarm the area. But from around November to the end of February, when the weather is blustery but mild, Tofino-goers lay low in cozy beach-front cottages, sip Canadian wine by the fire, hike amid old-growth forests and stroll along the rugged shoreline. If you want adventure, arrange a floatplane expedition to Hot Springs Cove (Contact Tofino Air, www.tofinoair.ca), where you can sit in rock pools with steaming-hot water. Be sure to go when the tide is high so you can experience the icy waves crashing into the pools. If you're really brave, rent a surfboard -- and a wet suit -- from one of the local surf shops and try your feet at hanging ten in the rough sea. You won't be alone -- Tofino has a vibrant surfing tradition all year long.
-- Where to stay: The Wickaninnish Inn has made storm-watching a selling point. Located right on the beach, many rooms come complete with soaker tubs in front of beach-view windows where you can watch giant waves crash against craggy rocks. If you want to get intimate with Mother Nature, the hotel provides you with a rain slicker, boots and a hat. After you come in from the elements, crank up your personal gas-burning fireplace or head to the hotel's Ancient Cedars Spa for a massage (Rooms start at 260 Canadian dollars, Tel. 250-725-3100, www.wickinn.com). If you want more privacy, rent your own private lodge, rustic cabin or condo (Try www.my-tofino.com).
-- Where to eat: Locally caught fish is a theme shared by most restaurants in Tofino. At the Schooner, try decadent dishes like halibut stuffed with crab, shrimp, brie cheese and pine nuts (Tel. 250-725-3444, www.schoonerrestaurant.com). For down-home fish chowder and polenta fries go to SOBO -- short for sophisticated bohemian -- whose owners until recently served their fare out of a purple bus (Tel. 250-725-2341, www.sobo.ca). If you have your own kitchen, head to Trilogy Fish Co., an understated retail fish store that sells locally caught fish (www.trilogyfish.net).
