The Wall Street Journal-20080124-Style -- Tricks of the Trade- Intimate Advice- A Lingerie Designer-s Picks
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Style -- Tricks of the Trade: Intimate Advice: A Lingerie Designer's Picks
Whether you go for delicate lingerie or simple bras and underpants, the key to feeling confident in your underwear, says lingerie designer Valerie Delafosse, is getting the fit right.
Ms. Delafosse, the creative director of French lingerie and swimwear brand Eres, has designed intimate wear for a number of brands, including Gap and Dior, in the past.
Trying underwear on -- and facing the glaring truth of a dressing- room mirror -- can be unpleasant. But Ms. Delafosse says it's important not to be so embarrassed about your size that you pretend to be a size bigger on top or smaller on the bottom. A good saleswoman should be able to pinpoint a customer's dimensions, even before the customer disrobes. "Always trust the saleswoman on size," she says.
No matter what your size, certain underwear cuts will never be flattering. Because of her curvy hips, Ms. Delafosse says she avoids "boy shorts" -- a look she advises only for reed-like body shapes. And the way some bikinis cut into her waist makes her hips stand out, Ms. Delafosse says.
Instead, she prefers a low-rise bikini cut, which sinks below the waist line but still looks feminine because of the way it curves up around the thigh. Ms. Delafosse cringes at the idea of a G-string and says more-conservative underwear is making a comeback. "It's lost its grandmotherly aspect," she says. By choosing a lace fabric, Ms. Delafosse says, she can look "sexy and feminine" even in hip-huggers.
Moving up the body, Ms. Delafosse puts women in two categories for bras. Women with small chests or implants should choose a triangular bra without an underwire, she says. For women who are bigger on top, like Ms. Delafosse, the best choice is a half-cup bra with an underwire. Always adjust the straps on the bra to see if it's comfortable, she says.
To see if a bra offers a flattering silhouette, Ms. Delafosse throws on a T-shirt. Looking at herself from the side with clothes on gives her a better idea of the finished look. She also checks out how her back looks. "You don't want to look like a sausage, hanging over the bra strap," she says.
Ms. Delafosse prefers unfussy designs and muted colors -- particularly skin-tone shades -- to frilly looks. Rather than thinking first thing about how they look in men's eyes, says Ms. Delafosse, "women should buy lingerie first of all to make themselves feel beautiful."
