The New York Times-20080127-Roses of Consequence- -Review-

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Roses of Consequence; [Review]

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A new East End producer specializing in rose wines is sending his first vintage to local stores and restaurants at the right moment.

A national boom in roses has focused attention on that genre, which has long been considered trivial. This interest is neutralizing the cliche that roses are suited only to warm weather.

Croteaux Vineyards has released three 2006 pink wines made from merlot grapes first planted on its 14-acre property in Southold in 2003. All three, made by Richard Olsen-Harbich at Raphael, in Peconic, are intended for year-round use.

The proprietors are Michael and Paula S. Croteau. A graphic artist, he has designed labels and packaging for such producers as Osprey's Dominion, Peconic Bay Winery, Sherwood House, Schneider and Bedell Cellars. She owns the Farmhouse Kitchen Cooking and Baking School, also in Southold.

Three differently colored labels on the Croteaux merlots signify that the wines show varying attributes caused by clonal variations in the merlot grapevines. The labels carry each clone's international numerical designation.

My favorite was the refreshing No. 181, a clone from Pomerol, France. Made in stainless steel tanks, which preserve fruitiness, it is as light as a feather and berrylike, shows an anise note and ends with a tang.

Croteaux's light-bodied No. 314, which is also found in Pomerol, Saint-Emilion and Bergerac, shows overall panache, delivering a pleasantly floral scent and a fruit-salad flavor that is a bit herbal. It, too, was reared in stainless steel.

No. 3, from a clone developed by the University of California at Davis, is bolder than its siblings. Fermented in new and old French barrels, it almost evokes a casual red wine. Toasted oak comes through in the aroma and flavor, along with a hint of tobacco.

For the fullest possible appreciation of flavors and subtleties, drink the roses lightly chilled; when icy, they become inaccessible.

The wines ($20 each, $57 for three) are sold at the tasting room, 1450 South Harbor Road, Southold, as well as in shops and restaurants. Further information is available at www.croteaux.com.