The New York Times-20080127-Rebirth of a Bohemian Barrio
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Rebirth of a Bohemian Barrio
Full Text (608 words)THE Boedo section of Buenos Aires was an artistic hotbed in the early 20th century, home to Argentine cultural giants like the writer Roberto Arlt and the tango lyricist Homero Manzi. But it drifted into anonymity after World War II, a low-slung, middle-class neighborhood whose famous soccer stadium was razed and turned into a Carrefour supermarket.
In the last few years, however, Boedo has experienced a cultural rebirth. As other bohemian neighborhoods like San Telmo and Palermo have been gentrified, independent theaters, underground restaurants and trendy bars have sprung up amid the skinny, century-old chorizo cottages that still define Boedo. The city has installed semi-figurative sculptures on many sidewalks, and tattooed artists now mingle with longtime residents who were teenagers during Boedo's last boom.
Much of the resurgence can be attributed to the arts-minded Marin family, who moved to Buenos Aires from the Argentine city of Mendoza and opened several restaurants and cultural centers, including Germinal Marin's Pan y Arte (Avenida Boedo 880; 54-11-4957-6702), a restaurant that serves traditional Mendoza dishes including a kind of Argentine shepherd's pie called pastel al barro (22 pesos, or about $6.90 at 3.2 pesos to the dollar). Housed in a former printing shop, the bistro also has live tango and Latin jazz shows, in addition to a 45-seat theater.
Boedo's theatrical wings are on display at the Timbre 4 (Boedo 640; 54-11-4932-4395; www.timbre4.com), a 50-seat playhouse started by the playwright Claudio Tolcachir. Since 2004, it has been home to Mr. Tolcachir's award-winning comedy La Omision de la Familia Coleman, attracting celebrities like Francis Ford Coppola.
The barrio's bohemian past has been discovered. Across the street from Pan y Arte is Cafe Margot (Boedo 857; 54-11-4957-0001), an old French-style cafe, replete with bow-tied waiters, black-and-white floor tiles and old cigarette signs, that draws a new generation of artists and writers.
And at the Monte de Piedad Museum(Boedo 870, 2nd floor; 54-11-4931-1605), visitors can see a recreation of the Cafe Biarritz, a famed leftist hangout that was located one floor below. The museum also traces the history of the Banco Ciudad from pawnshop to modern bank, with fascinating artifacts like a set of brass banisters that was bashed by angry customers in the aftermath of Argentina's 2001 economic crisis.
The neighborhood's boom is not restricted to Avenida Boedo. On nearby Avenida Carlos Calvo is the rarest of rarities in wine-drenched Argentina: a pub with an extensive beer menu. Cossab (Carlos Calvo 4199, 54-11-4925-2505; www.pubcossab.com.ar) has some 100 beers from Argentina and beyond, and is popular with university students and artists. A few blocks away, a similar crowd drinks mojitos (15 pesos) at Klub Killer (Castro Barros 809; 54-11-4932-9261; www.klubkiller.com.ar), a dark, bordello-red bar wedged inside an old home.
Boedo lacks interesting shopping, but there are a few exceptions. In a mall at the intersection made famous in the tango Sur is Almacen Porteno(Galeria Gran Boedo, Avenida San Juan 3625, No. 47; 54-9-11-4979-8604; www.tangoalmacen.com), a tiny record store with an extensive collection of tango CDs (15 to 24 pesos), photos and sheet music. The tango-obsessed owner, Juan Carlos Bellini, also sells old tango LPs online (from $8).
The city's current fad over puertas cerradas -- restaurants in private homes -- has also reached Boedo. Held at the home of a local chef, Maximo Cabrera, Kensho (54-11-4957-7679; www.kensho.com.ar) serves ambitious organic vegetarian dishes like ceviche made from tofu and oyster mushrooms (about 65 pesos a person for dinner).
After the meal, Mr. Cabrera and his wife, Guillermina Dias, perform songs that sound like Sade with a techno edge -- a fitting soundtrack for an old bohemian quarter finding a new voice.
[Illustration]DRAWING (DRAWING BY JULIETTE BORDA)