The New York Times-20080127-Hearty- and Classic- Favorites- -Review-

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Hearty, and Classic, Favorites; [Review]

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The upscale deli On a Roll may have a kitschy name, but the sandwiches, soups and salads it serves are classic. A bowl of creamy tomato basil soup ($4) or the rosemary chicken pot pie ($8 with a side salad) will warm you on a winter's day. So will the crackling fireplace at this cozy shop downtown, which opened in 1996 but feels older with its pressed-tin ceiling and marble cafe tables. (There is seating for 40.)

Lunch can be light here -- tuna salad or clam chowder, for example -- or it can be hearty, especially if you choose the homemade meatloaf sandwich ($6.50, served as a rotating special). The wonderfully messy sloppy Joe sandwich with a choice of ham, turkey or roast beef is served on soft rye and smothered with tangy Russian dressing and creamy coleslaw ($6.50).

The open-faced French dip with thinly sliced roast beef, sauteed onions and melted provolone on crusty baguette is another timeless option ($6.50). The shop's signature grilled chicken breast sandwich with turkey bacon and blue cheese on a flaky croissant is slightly different and justly popular ($6.25).

If you are planning a lunch for a group, you can buy spinach quiche ($15 for a whole one) or savory Greek-style spinach tart with feta cheese ($40 for a half baking sheet). There is a catering menu of dinner entrees (roasted leg of lamb and sea scallops, to name two) and hors d'oeuvres as well.

Among the desserts, oatmeal raisin cookies and chunky brownies are good, but the buttery blondies loaded with chocolate chips and walnuts are irresistible ($1.50).

On a Roll, 50 1/2 Main Street, Madison; (973) 822-3644. Open Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.