The New York Times-20080127-Fondue Redux -circa 1960s-- -Review-

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Fondue Redux (circa 1960s); [Review]

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Those who doubt that history repeats itself may notice that at least one hallmark of the 1960s has been revived in White Plains. The Melting Pot -- one in a national franchise of more than 150 fondue restaurants -- hasn't forgotten the ritual involving long forks, mounds of raw ingredients and a communal cooking pot of bubbling liquid. Order the four-course Big Night Out, as most do, and make a sociable evening of it.

The menu, which also offers a la carte dishes, takes some study, as every course lists several choices. Our group went a traditional route. For the cheese fondue opener, Swiss cheeses and a splash of Kirschwasser neatly cloaked pieces of bread, apples and vegetables. Next, topped with boiled eggs and Emmenthaler, a terrific house salad made a cool, refreshing interlude.

For the entree of mixed meats, fish and vegetables, Bourguignon-style dip with bland canola cooking oil had a healthy advantage, but the oil couldn't achieve heat high enough to sear ingredients, especially beef, which turned gray. Next time we will try one of the broth styles.

A quick change of pots brought the chocolate fondue finale. The original, chocolate and crunchy peanut butter, like molten Reese's Pieces, was lovely for dunking fruit, marshmallows and diced poundcake.

The entire restaurant is underground. A warren of narrow corridors, some fitted with intimate dining niches for two, lead off the bar and main dining room. But the ventilation system needs adjustment. As diners filled the booths and began cooking, the air became cloudy with fumes from the used oil. It's best to wear washable clothing.

The Melting Pot, 30 Mamaroneck Avenue (basement level), White Plains; (914) 993-6358 or www.meltingpot.com. Dinner only: Monday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday, 5 to midnight; Saturday, 4 to midnight; Sunday, 4 to 10 p.m. Four courses (most designed for two to share), $45 to $50 per person; single entree and salad, $22 to $38.