The Wall Street Journal-20080131-Home - Family- Shopping Around - French-Press Cafetieres

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Home & Family: Shopping Around / French-Press Cafetieres

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Glass-Free for Klutzes

French presses -- simple devices that brew quick, strong cups of coffee -- are getting tougher.

The gadgets have usually been made of glass. And some critics say these are too delicate and break easily. Now, manufacturers are experimenting with different designs and materials to cut down on mishaps without sacrificing the quality of coffee.

Some of the new presses are made out of polycarbonate plastic, 100% stainless steel, or glass and steel combinations. While most of the presses that we tried made splendid cups of coffee, not all were aesthetically pleasing. Some looked like they belonged in a science lab.

The earliest French presses were crude aluminum pots with a poor filters, says Thomas Perez, president of French press maker Bodum USA. There's also some disagreement over whether the device was even invented in France. Some say it made its debut in Italy.

Here's a look at the some of the latest designs.

-- 8-cup Hugo Unbreakable French Press/BonJour

Price: $19.99

Availability: www.bonjourproducts.com

Comments: We liked the filter on the lid, which minimized the amount of coffee grinds that fell into our cup. It was lightweight and easy to clean. But the polycarbonate material -- although sturdy -- looked a little cheap.

-- 8-cup French Press Eileen Coffee Maker/Bodum

Price: $69.95

Availability: www.bodum.com

Comments: The stainless-steel frame surrounding the glass pot gives this press an attractive look while protecting it from getting nicked. We liked the rubber-coated handle that made this press easy to hold. It also made a fine cup of coffee that was dreg-free.

-- 4-cup Multi-Purpose French Press/Frieling USA Inc.

Price: $55.00

Availability: www.frieling.com

Comments: This handsome stainless-steel press kept our coffee hot. The coffee tasted splendid, despite a sub-par filter. Even using the coarse-ground coffee that was recommended, we still got a mouthful of sediment when we took our last sip.

-- 4-cup AeroPress/Aerobie Inc.

Price: $29.99

Availability: www.aerobie.com

Comments: This technically isn't a French press; it uses paper filters and looks like a giant syringe. The AeroPress produces excellent espresso and robust American-style coffee. Still, the mechanics of preparation were fussy. The disposable filter, ground coffee and hot water are placed in a plastic tube that sits atop a cup. The contents are stirred, and the brew pushed gently through the filter with a rubber-tipped plunger. The result is espresso. Dilute with more hot water for regular joe.

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